And my Kilted Trooper!

I almost forgot to post my Kilted Troope outfit from the St. Pat's parade.  I hand made my kilt with black and white tartan plaid.  The extra fabric from the bottom became my sash with my dad's real four-leaf clover in-a-pin holding my sash together.

 

Until next time,
Jawa Jaka (going green, black and white style!)

IN tunic front panel mockup

After a long St. Pat's weekend that included finishing a kilt, helping on a float, marching in a parade, and eating lots of pizza at Beujou's with good friends, I decided to take a break from my hectic life and work on the IN tunic mockup.  So, here's what I did tonight while watching LOTR/Two Towers for the umpteenth time.

First I got out my muslin.  People ask me what kind of muslin I use, and it's a doozy.  I have hundreds of padded packing paper from seven years ago when my parents passed on.  I just rip the brown paper off and I get lots of blue thin fabric that works quite well.  Ask your local moving companies/uhaul/PODS/etc for some padded paper.  It'll cost you some, but it's cheaper than what you can get at a fabric store.  Or use any old sheets/curtains/etc.  Remember, it's going to be tossed out eventually.

Now on to the fun stuff. 

This is based on a regular IO front panel.  You'll need to adjust and measure this piece on your body using CharToraz's tutorial.  You'll also need to take the right side of the neck line and make a straight edge from center to about one inch below your right shoulder.  In this pic I labeled the panels backwards but the end results are the same.  R will actually go over your left shoulder and L will go just under your right shoulder seam.

From the point where the neck curve becomes straight draw a straight line to the bottom edge somewhat parallel to the right edge.  Cut on this line to make R.  Measure two to three inches from the left edge at both top and bottom.  What ever measurement you decide to use it must be the same at top and bottom.  Draw a straight line and cut to make L.  The middle piece is automatically magic!

These three pieces will be the basis for your pattern pieces.  Take another large piece of muslin and pin R and Mid on it.  Cut at least one inch on the sides you cut in the previous step.  This will give you seam allowance and some extra to adjust for that taylored look (it's always better to cut bigger than smaller!).

For L fold your muslin giving yourself at least one inch extra on the short side.  Lay the long side of L on the fold and cut on the extra inch for seam allowance and adjustments.

As a long-time quilter I like to use a straight edge and rotary cutter.  If you don't have those please try to cut as straight as possible.  Tip:  you can use any ruler or straight edge like a piece of paper and cut outside the edge.  This will help you get a nice clean cut.

At this time you'll have three larger pieces that looks something like this.  L is unfolded in this pic.  Sew R to Mid, then the unfolded L to Mid.

This is what it will look like after sewing the three pieces together.

This is a close up of the top neck line.  Notice the pointed shape of the unfolded L.

This is what you'll get when you fold L under.  L will get some light batting and then whipstitched into place on the back.  I'll have pics of that process later (when I get to that part). 

Again, I had you all cut the pieces a little big for any adjustments.  I already had to adjust the Mid section a little for the L seam (my Mid was a smidgeon too large).  You'll probably be trimming off a little here and there when you get it fitted on the rest of the tunic.

Until next time,
Jawa Jaka (Battle of Helms Deep is still going on!  What a long movie battle!)

Navy Trooper boots

I think I found the boots for the IN on ebay.uk.  They have a size 7 which will work (my shoe size is 6.5 ladies).  Granted they are replicas but they're the right ones with a top buckle and gusset.  A friend of mine got the real thing for much cheaper, so I'm going to see what his looks like and if they have small sizes ($45 for real ones versus $90 for replicas from England).

I'll be making the tunic mockup this weekend.  I'm totally going nuts on this, but I'm determined to get a level 3 (L3) on the IOC out of this.

Until next time,
Jawa Jaka (with small feet)

ANH Navy Trooper part 2

So, after today's MDA troop (which was a blast), and after finishing my kilt, I got back to work on the tunic. Here's a drawing I did of how I'm going to change the front panel, along with some notes. I'm hoping to make better drawings of this, but at least this is a starting point.



Here is a pic of my IN as of today at the MDA troop (second from left).  It's just my IO tunic with no rank badge.



Until next time,
Navy Trooper Jawa Jaka

New ANH Navy Trooper

I've been issued a challenge to create a tutorial for the ANH Navy Trooper costume.  It seems you can no longer wear an IO with a helmet and belt boxes and call it a day (which is what I did).  I'm going for the new Level 3 (L3) super accurate costume.  I've already ordered my metal belt boxes (no plastic for L3), found a source on ebay.uk for the correct boots with straps/gussets, and sent an email to the only person I know making gauntlets for small hands.  As soon as I get all the details ironed out I'm going to post the whole tutorial on the Imperial Officers Corp (IOC) website.  Unfortunately, AL will have to take a backseat again.  Here's the first installment:



I found out that a few have made this tunic but no WIP's, pics, or instructions. The IOC CO has asked me to do a tunic tutorial for this particular one. I spent most of the day cleaning out my sewing room so I could find my IO tunic pattern pieces (found 'em). I'm going to start with that, adjusting the front panel, and tapering instead of skirting the bottom part. It looks like there will be a lot of similarities for building both IO and navy trooper, but I'll do my best to write this tutorial from start to finish. This is going to be fun.

First up is buying McCall's pattern #4745 Men's Civil War. It has the best collar and front panel.


We are going to basically use the one on the left with some major pattern adjustments (and definitely not that long, either). Also, if you can find ChazTorad (Chuck Folz) on the IOC for his IO tunic tutorial print that (I have a hard copy of it if anyone wants a copy). It's several files, ignore the dosimeter pocket instructions (no pockets on navy trooper). And don't bother with the skirt portion (we are going to flare it out as one piece for navy trooper). I'm still researching the sleeves as some say it's a standard fitted sleeve, not the IO two piece sleeve (under and over sleeve). If this is true a standard fitted straight sleeve pattern without cuffs will do. Also, the back is one piece, no princess seams or side cut-ins. I'll get pics up as soon as I cut my correct pattern pieces so everyone can see what I'm talking about (most of this info is for experienced costumers).

I also got some black twill on sale at Joann Fabrics ($6.99 a yard with 20% coupon). I bought the last 5.25 yards at my store and got half off for the last .25 yards as end of bolt sale (couldn't they give me half off for all of it since I practically took the whole bolt?). Get enough for pants and tunic so they can be from the same cut of fabric.

Use any plain fitted straight pants pattern that you can find (Simplicity has several for beginners, I think mine is a very old McCall's). Don't use any old black pants that you find in the store as the chances of it matching the tunic are nil. No Jodphurs for this one! I might put a pocket in them so I can carry keys and wallet (although I think converting one of the belt boxes for that would be awesome). Tomorrow I'll be cutting out my pants pieces and putting that together (now that I have the fabric). I won't be giving detailed instructions on the pants, just follow the pattern instructions. When you're finished iron to crease down the front of the legs. Remember, these have to fit into your boots, so no flared-out bell bottoms.

Last thing for tonight's installment of this tutorial (once I'm finished here I'll tweek and transfer the whole shebang to the IOC): Do not buy/make rank badges for this costume. Navy troopers don't need no stinkin' badges.