New ANH Navy Trooper

I've been issued a challenge to create a tutorial for the ANH Navy Trooper costume.  It seems you can no longer wear an IO with a helmet and belt boxes and call it a day (which is what I did).  I'm going for the new Level 3 (L3) super accurate costume.  I've already ordered my metal belt boxes (no plastic for L3), found a source on ebay.uk for the correct boots with straps/gussets, and sent an email to the only person I know making gauntlets for small hands.  As soon as I get all the details ironed out I'm going to post the whole tutorial on the Imperial Officers Corp (IOC) website.  Unfortunately, AL will have to take a backseat again.  Here's the first installment:



I found out that a few have made this tunic but no WIP's, pics, or instructions. The IOC CO has asked me to do a tunic tutorial for this particular one. I spent most of the day cleaning out my sewing room so I could find my IO tunic pattern pieces (found 'em). I'm going to start with that, adjusting the front panel, and tapering instead of skirting the bottom part. It looks like there will be a lot of similarities for building both IO and navy trooper, but I'll do my best to write this tutorial from start to finish. This is going to be fun.

First up is buying McCall's pattern #4745 Men's Civil War. It has the best collar and front panel.


We are going to basically use the one on the left with some major pattern adjustments (and definitely not that long, either). Also, if you can find ChazTorad (Chuck Folz) on the IOC for his IO tunic tutorial print that (I have a hard copy of it if anyone wants a copy). It's several files, ignore the dosimeter pocket instructions (no pockets on navy trooper). And don't bother with the skirt portion (we are going to flare it out as one piece for navy trooper). I'm still researching the sleeves as some say it's a standard fitted sleeve, not the IO two piece sleeve (under and over sleeve). If this is true a standard fitted straight sleeve pattern without cuffs will do. Also, the back is one piece, no princess seams or side cut-ins. I'll get pics up as soon as I cut my correct pattern pieces so everyone can see what I'm talking about (most of this info is for experienced costumers).

I also got some black twill on sale at Joann Fabrics ($6.99 a yard with 20% coupon). I bought the last 5.25 yards at my store and got half off for the last .25 yards as end of bolt sale (couldn't they give me half off for all of it since I practically took the whole bolt?). Get enough for pants and tunic so they can be from the same cut of fabric.

Use any plain fitted straight pants pattern that you can find (Simplicity has several for beginners, I think mine is a very old McCall's). Don't use any old black pants that you find in the store as the chances of it matching the tunic are nil. No Jodphurs for this one! I might put a pocket in them so I can carry keys and wallet (although I think converting one of the belt boxes for that would be awesome). Tomorrow I'll be cutting out my pants pieces and putting that together (now that I have the fabric). I won't be giving detailed instructions on the pants, just follow the pattern instructions. When you're finished iron to crease down the front of the legs. Remember, these have to fit into your boots, so no flared-out bell bottoms.

Last thing for tonight's installment of this tutorial (once I'm finished here I'll tweek and transfer the whole shebang to the IOC): Do not buy/make rank badges for this costume. Navy troopers don't need no stinkin' badges.