Monday, March 18, 2013

IN tunic front panel mockup

After a long St. Pat's weekend that included finishing a kilt, helping on a float, marching in a parade, and eating lots of pizza at Beujou's with good friends, I decided to take a break from my hectic life and work on the IN tunic mockup.  So, here's what I did tonight while watching LOTR/Two Towers for the umpteenth time.

First I got out my muslin.  People ask me what kind of muslin I use, and it's a doozy.  I have hundreds of padded packing paper from seven years ago when my parents passed on.  I just rip the brown paper off and I get lots of blue thin fabric that works quite well.  Ask your local moving companies/uhaul/PODS/etc for some padded paper.  It'll cost you some, but it's cheaper than what you can get at a fabric store.  Or use any old sheets/curtains/etc.  Remember, it's going to be tossed out eventually.

Now on to the fun stuff. 


This is based on a regular IO front panel.  You'll need to adjust and measure this piece on your body using CharToraz's tutorial.  You'll also need to take the right side of the neck line and make a straight edge from center to about one inch below your right shoulder.  In this pic I labeled the panels backwards but the end results are the same.  R will actually go over your left shoulder and L will go just under your right shoulder seam.


From the point where the neck curve becomes straight draw a straight line to the bottom edge somewhat parallel to the right edge.  Cut on this line to make R.  Measure two to three inches from the left edge at both top and bottom.  What ever measurement you decide to use it must be the same at top and bottom.  Draw a straight line and cut to make L.  The middle piece is automatically magic!

These three pieces will be the basis for your pattern pieces.  Take another large piece of muslin and pin R and Mid on it.  Cut at least one inch on the sides you cut in the previous step.  This will give you seam allowance and some extra to adjust for that taylored look (it's always better to cut bigger than smaller!).


For L fold your muslin giving yourself at least one inch extra on the short side.  Lay the long side of L on the fold and cut on the extra inch for seam allowance and adjustments.


As a long-time quilter I like to use a straight edge and rotary cutter.  If you don't have those please try to cut as straight as possible.  Tip:  you can use any ruler or straight edge like a piece of paper and cut outside the edge.  This will help you get a nice clean cut.


At this time you'll have three larger pieces that looks something like this.  L is unfolded in this pic.  Sew R to Mid, then the unfolded L to Mid.


This is what it will look like after sewing the three pieces together.


This is a close up of the top neck line.  Notice the pointed shape of the unfolded L.


This is what you'll get when you fold L under.  L will get some light batting and then whipstitched into place on the back.  I'll have pics of that process later (when I get to that part). 

Again, I had you all cut the pieces a little big for any adjustments.  I already had to adjust the Mid section a little for the L seam (my Mid was a smidgeon too large).  You'll probably be trimming off a little here and there when you get it fitted on the rest of the tunic.

Until next time,
Jawa Jaka (Battle of Helms Deep is still going on!  What a long movie battle!)

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